Meob Bay & Conception patrol trip by Louis
Reichert
Gunter on top of his world.
In memoriam to Gunter Kock 31/10/1938 -
06/01/2004 Kockie when we do this trip we will always think of you.
Meeting each other at Rooibank.
This vehicle will never move.
I was priviledged to go on a patrol trip of the
Conception & Meob Bay area with honorary game warden Gunther Kock last
weekend. We where joined by a team from the Walvis Bay Munisipality Gus Katiti,
Piet van Niekerk, Willie van Zyl and friends of theirs Deon and Leon. We left
Walvis Bay at 07h30 Friday morning and made or first stop at Rooibank where we
deflated tyres and and made last checks to vehicles. We only left there just
before 09h00 as Gus had some or other delay. Me and Gunther took the front with
his Landrover Defender TDI next it was Gus and
Highway in the dunes.
Deon inspecting the petrified dunes
Willie in Gus's Chev Blazer and
covering the rear Piet, Deon & Leon in Piet's Hilux 2.7 D/C.
We headed though the Kuiseb river through the
roller coaster dunes into the dune highway we made the first stop at the
karretjie, a wreck what was left over of a car that broke down in the dunes many
years ago. From karretjie we sped down the dune highway at 80 - 90 km/h for 40
km before we turned into the dunes heading towards the sea.
The chevy dust storm
Conception stockpile
The next stop was at the petrified dunes the
dunes where we inspected these dunes that was uncovered by the wind. From there
the next few hours we we followed the paaltjie road, this is a poles that
Gunther planted in the dunes in the last 15 years that he has been patrolling
the area to make navigation in the dunes easier in the days before mobile GPS
systems. We crossed a few dune highways and huge dune boundries on the edges of
the highways, we reached the beach north of Conception just after 14h00.
Rail line from Conception
Villa Nortwind
We had
a traditional shot of port to welcome us to the sea and to calm the nerves after
crossing the +- 100 km of big dunes.
We headed south along the beach to Conception Bay
and then to our camp site at Conception water. We set up camp next to Villa
Nortwind a old wooden house that Gunther uses on his patrol trips the name comes
from the last ship that Gunther worked on when he stepped off in Wavis Bay 38
years ago. After the camp was setup we helped Gunther to move is museum to the
more protected
Camp setup at Villa Nortwind
Edward Bohlen
police station building. The museum is old tools and bits and
pieces that he collected and kept at Villa Nortwind.
We settled down in the sheltered veranda of our
"villa" and had a braai for dinner. I had to braai all the meat that
we could not keep in our freezer so we had enough to eat for the next day as
well. Gus kept teasing me with the question which 4x4 is the best the whole
night and I hope that I could have convinced him that a Land Cruiser is far
superior to anything else on the market (grin). The next day
Meob Bay
Our bungalows at Fishersbrun
we where up early and started packing only the
neccessary for the next night at Fishersbrun where we would sleep in bungalows.
We left the extra wood, fuel and tents behind at our villa and set off at just
before 09h00.
Our first stop was at the wreck of the Edward
Bolen a ship that stranded here in the early 1900s it is currently lying about a
kilometer from the beach and looks like it will soon be covered
by a dune. The next stop was Meob Bay where we
had a look at the old whalers that was used to bring supplies to the shore from
the vessels that anchored in the bay. There are still parts of the old baking
oven of the bakery that supplied the area with bread. We also found an old
lorrie and some crates of supplies and equipment that was left behind when the
Germans left the area.
Baking oven at Meob Bay
From Meob we carried on southward along the beach
past an area of a few kilometers littered with whale bones that
washed up here. We arrived at Fishersbrun around noon time and we unpacked the
vehicles, had a nice lunch and a bit of a look around and a rest. Fishersbrun is
a fountain where the water that seeps through from Sossusvlei comes above
ground. In the years when this area was
inhabited and the Germans Fishersbrun was the
water supply point. The water was pumped to the towns up to 80 km from here in a
steel pipe about 3 inches in diameter. The huts at Fishersbrun is currently
being kept in a good condition by the guys of the Oranjemund angling club which
comes to to tag and release fish in the region.
At 14h30 we took the road south to Langewand and
to see if we could find the herds of oryx that frequent the area south of
Fishersbrun. Langewand is a +-50
Northern entrance to Langewand
km of high dunes that comes right up to the sea.
This is only passable at low
Oryx close to Fishersbrun
tide and of there was a heavy sea running for a
few days some places the sand is washed away and it is only boulders which is
very difficult to cross with any vehicle. Gunther told us that they got stuck
there a few years back and they had to build a road for about 7 hours in
water up to their hips at some times through these bolders to a rock just
big enough to park their 3 vehicles above the high tide. He had a tarpaulin that
they tied over the vehicles to keep the sea spray of the vehicles. He says this
is a night that they had to drink all their booze to keep them warm as there was
no place to make a fire.
We returned to our huts late afternoon and we
where all very happy to be able to take a nice hot shower. Then we started the
preparations for our braai for the evening. Just after sunset we had a visit
from a "Strand Wolf" which came right up to us looking for food. We
had the normal campfire banter till about 23h00 when we decided to call it a
night. The next morning it was up early again
Grillental
having breakfast, packing vehicles and having
showers and off we went to look at the ghost towns that was left behind by the
Germans when the first world war started. The ones that did not make it to the
ships going back to Germany to go and fight in the war was captured by the South
African troops and taken to the concentration camp at Aus.
Sorting machines with bungalows at the background at Charlottental.
The first town we visited was Grillental this
looks to be the biggest of the three with workshop and a hospital. There
is not much left over that the elements in this area did not get to. I found
some furniture still in one of the houses which walls have not been blown away
by the wind. Next stop was Charlottental which looks to be diamond production
town as it only has 2 foreman's houses and then a lot of of worker's bungalows
and lots of sifting machines. It is amazing to see the German presicion
Kitchen at house at Holtasia
in the placement of the bungalows and the sifting
equipment all in a straight line.
The last town we visited was Holsatia it was also
a production tow set up very similar to Charlottental. In one of the foreman's
houses I found the pots and pans still in the kitchen just as they left it. From
there we crossed the white dunes back to the villa Nortwind. We found all our
stuff just as we left it 2 days ago. That night we braaied all the left over
meat and made a bonfire with all our rubbish we collected over the last few
days. The next morning it was up early packing all our stuff back in the
vehicles. We also collected all the rubbish that
did not burn like tins and bottles
Going down BIG Namib dunes
from the ashes of the bonfire to take with
us.
We made very good time on the way back through
the dunes until the Chev started giving problems. It was finally decided that we
would leave the vehicle in the dunes and Willie would come back the next day
with a mechanic to repair it and then drive it home. We arrived at Rooibank
about 15h00 and I think I am correct in saying that we all where a little sad
that our trip was over as it was a very special experience. Thanks to Gunther
that made this possible for all of
us.
Meob bay trip by Harald Jensen
28 March 1993 Rooibank the convoy ready to negotiate the dunes
The remains of a stranded vehicle in the dunes at a water test hole
Airborne Willie, he tackles a dune with
flying colours.
Petrified dunes
One of the many wrecks south of Conception bay note the green copper
cladding.
The Edward Boulen high & dry at
Conception bay
The "Langewand" route can only be
made at low tide.
A herd of Oryx
Camp and dwellings at Fishersbrunn
A diamond sorter stands abandoned.
Grillental the first abandoned mining
village from the south.