This page came to be with a discussion on the forum that there are many places out there that you can
use to camp that would not cost you a arm and a leg or are some tomes for free. The guys are sharing this
information here for other people to visit these places. Just remember if you
visit one of these places keep it clean. If you come there and find that the
person before you did not leave it clean, clean it up so that the next person at
least have a clean spot. There will unfortunately always be some hooligans
around to try and mess up things for us.
Camping along
the Polentswa trail in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier park, Botswana side by Alfred
Faul
Polentswa camping site at the start of the Polentswa Wilderness
Trailin
the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
There are a total
of three similar structures or camping sites approximately up to 100+ meters
apart with an additional enclosure at each where you can shower. You have to
bring your own shower, water and everything else. The Botswanas provide the
shelters only so that lions and other similar friendly residents don’t join
you for a cool down in the shower There are no fences or Park officials of any
kind; you are totally in the open and totally on your own. Absolutely super!!!
The trail (one way track) runs from here for + 260 km in the Botswana side of
the Park and end about 25 km to the north at Lijersdraai in the RSA side (see
map). You are not allowed to do the trail with less than two or more than 5
vehicles (4x4 only & no trailers) and in less than 3 days & 2 nights. En
route you have to camp at two designated “camp sites” only. Your first night
will be at Sesatwe Pan (Nr 2) and
Sesatwe Pan camping site halfway along the Polentswa Wilderness Trail
inthe Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
the second
night at Long Rambuka Pan. Facilities at both sites are exactly the same
and include (if you are lucky!) a very small sign against a tree with the word
“camping” painted on it and ….. ….. that’s all! Nothing more!!!
Here we were visited by a cheetah and a couple of spotted hyena (the latter
stayed over for the night). Between Sesatswe and Long Rambuka we were met by a
lioness and her two juvenile cubs. I still maintain it was the famous Ousus.
Conclusion
Most definitely recommended for
a very relaxing drive. A trip report with more photos will follow sometime in
the future. I’ll be doing the other trail in the Botswana side of the Park (Mabuasehube
Trail) next April. Believe it or not, but the trails in the RSA side (Bitterpan
& Nossob 4x4 Echo trails) are too damn expensive and civilized for that
matter!!!
Camping
sites visited by Alfred Faul
On
the exit side of Ryan’s Cave
a speed breaker should you be approaching from
the south or from
down stream side (if you know where to look you should be able to see my
daughter on the 2nd cliff above the right rear side of the
Colt).
Ugab
Menhir camp - our favorite place to say cheers to one year and hello
to the next.
Ongongo
“Turkish” bath (pool at the bottom of a fountain flowing from the rock
formation at the back).
Ongongo
Community Camp between Sesfontein and the Khowarib Schlucht
Just
because rain in the dessert is so blooming spectacular!!!
This
camp we named Springbokfontein (because of the large number of springbuck
we saw there) between Puros & Orumpembe.
The
Palm tree ‘bush” in the background as you approach from Kaoko Otavi to
the east.
Onganga
community camp on the banks of the upper Hoarusib River west of Kaoko
Otavi.
As
you approach from the west you need a mirror the read the sign post to the
camp.
Ovivero
camp between Otjitanda and Van Zyl’s Pass.
Omunjandi
Camp on the banks of the Kunene about 9 kilos down stream from Ruacana entrance.
Omunjandi
our
camping site.
Khaudum
Camp in the north of the reserve. No fences, hence you are invited!!
We were the first and only visitors in close to a month.
Sikereti
Camp in the south.
Khaudum
Camp in the north.
A
CWYA-camp (camp-where-you-are) somewhere
in Botswana.
Tsodill
hills in north west
Botswana.
Along
the Kunene after you have crossed the Ondoto river.
A
CWYA-camp (camp-where-you-are) somewhere
west of Otjondeka in south- east Kaokoland.
The
“Kaalkol” 319 kilos south-west from Mamuno (40 north-west from Kang)
is too close to home to be ……, but usually our last camp before we hit
the last + 790 kilos back to Pretoria. Many a new trip was born
here!!
About
60 kilos from Epupa show some of our CWYA-camps (camp-where-you-are) and
often are the ones leaving the most precious memories deep inside.
Campsites visited by Alex (Slowcoach) "Epupa"
Epupa now has two campsites plus the "up market"
camp the one with hot showers. The old campsite "Epupa Campsites" is
now fenced off and the locals respect this except for offering services like
firewood, laundry (you provide soap) and guiding. There is another site
"Hot Springs Campsite" run by Koos Wervey who also helped set up the
original campsite. I am not sure if his site private or not. The old campsite
has nice facilities and in the low season it is empty. In the high season it will
be busy.
The "Rhino Camp"
I have not overnighted at The Ugab
"Rhino" Camp but it looks nice, once you get to the pitches. The
entrance looks a bit miserable as you enter through the "village"
where the ranger/tracker's families live. It has a variety of pitches with at
least one A-frame and I think one bigger thatched shelter.
I believe that the village was moved back from
the river because of the continued harassment by elephants! There is a real
chance of seeing one of the Ugab family groups pass down the river. I am not
sure that it is an "official" campsite more an extension of the base
camp activities and to raise a little money for the village.
There is an interesting outdoor art gallery of
animals made from junk some of it recycled from the clean up of the old mine
workings. The approach road is sufficiently rough to keep out most low clearance
vehicles.
The gates serve to let them have a good look at
anyone crossing the Ugab and entering the Doros area to prevent illegal
tracking/poaching. Tracking by tour operators, private guides or tourists even
with no intention of harming the rhino can be construed as harassment and can
land you in the smelly stuff. There was a MET memo in late 2000 to this effect.
It is a good base to go exploring the Ugab
provided you know your way around the swamps just driving up river is not a good
option.
Local opinion (SRT rangers) is that an incident
with a tourist and an elephant is a disaster waiting to happen. The Ellies are
not particularly happy bunnies and they are surprisingly difficult to spot. They
get a lot of grief from tours/tourists at the Ugab Wilderness ("Jammie's")
Camp section complete with stone throwing etc. They also do not appreciate people testing their 4x4s in the river bed. Apparently the test is to see how
far you can get down river in 2wd just using speed; some things I will never
understand!
"Jamie's Camp"
Sorry not stayed here either but it looks okay
but does take tour parties. Pitches are amongst big stands of Khori bushes (Salvadoria?).
It is close to the principle entrance to the riverbed.
"White Lady Rest camp (Uis)"
I do not mean the "Brandberg Rest camp"!
Sorry not stayed here either. This is a new one
within a walled enclosure at the back of town. Not exactly the middle of
nowhere, just on another planet. Anyone who knows Uis will know what I mean.
What a place!
The Northwest offers some good wild camping opportunities
but the principle valleys, Hartmann's and the Marienfluss have a
campsite only rule. Veld fires are the obvious danger that this may refer to.
The Shell map shows camping at the end of
Hartmann's Valley but I would not bank on finding a campsite.
Returning from Hartmann's your best bet is camp
anywhere south of the turning. Reaching Puros is just a bit too far and too full
of flies. There is a campsite (or rather a sign) near Orumpembe but I have not
seen it.
Puros or Purros.
Must
be the camp at Puros Alex is referring to.
Nice setting, shame about the flies. Big Camel thorns, lots of Elephant Spoor, lots of flies. I believe there has been a
dispute over whose campsite it is.
"Elephant Song"
Not seen this one but it is near Dubis, tried to
get there from down river but track through the wetland blocked by elephant! Was
run by "Archie" but I think he had a bit of a lapse of judgment concerning the camp funds. I think this is the same Archie that had a bit of a
lapse of judgment when it came to Rhino poaching many years ago.
"The Palm wag Concession"
I think you can still get camping permits and
there are some recognized camping spots. There are also a surprising number of
lions not hundreds but one is enough.
"Damaraland Communal Area"
Anywhere away from the rest of humanity providing
you can find an access where there are no fences.
Camp sites visited by Ryan Visser Central Namibia:
Windhoek (WHK) to the coast(SWK or WVB):
There are 4 gravel roads leading to the coast, namely via Boshua pass, Us pass,
Gamsberg pass and of course Spreetshoogte pass.
Torsten se boom op Spreetshoogte.
Spreetshoogte road.
Of all Spreetshoogte must be the nicest,
but
beware, the wind is ALWAYS blowing quite strongly. There is no campsite on/near
the pass, but the roadside table is some 50m away from the road. The road is not
traveled a lot, and this place makes for a great sunset. You are basically on
top of the escarpment, looking down on the desert valley below, a site you will
always remember. This road leads to the road which links WVB with Solitaire,
the crossing some 20km from Solitaire. Therefore a great and recommended place
should you like to visit Sossusvlei ex WHK or the other way around.
Boshua pass lies on the road from WHK to SWK.
There are no trees for shade, so usually it's a very early morning get up and go
should you stay there. The farm fences are quite far from the road and you can
therefore camp far off the road. This road is quite busy and I would not
recommend it, but it's usually a nice halfway point should you wish to get out
of town (WHK) late on a Friday afternoon on your way to the coast.
Us pass and Gamsberg pass do not have camping
spots that is far from the road and I will not recommend camping there. Gamsberg
is one of the more beautiful passes, but rather drive through there during the
day and go camping elsewhere.
Western Namibia east and south east of WVB:
Naukluft park:
Mirabib:
Mirabib
road.
Mirabib cave.
Mirabib is a koppie in the middle of the desert some 70 km inland from Gobabeb
and about 140km from WVB. The wind has blown caves into the granite, which makes
for excellent camping.
Mirabib sunset.
There you will have your toilet with a view, and what an
amazing view that is. This place is very close to my heart, and I have very
special memories of it. There are 4 caves, 3 big ones and a smallish one. I
always prefer the smaller one, as it has a magnificent view. The caves doesn't
look to each other and chances are very small that you will encounter/hear other
campers in the other caves. Remember to get your permit should you wish to stay
there, and the caves are first come first serve. Better get there a bit earlier
to secure your cave.
Outside the park:
Khan River:
As the birds would see you – from the top
Must
be Ryan’s “Cave Camp” in the Kahn River.
The turn-off from the main tar road which links WHK and SWK are just
after/before the last/first farm fence, some 80 km to/from SWK. The Trekkopje
sign and the roadside table are basically next to each other. The turn off leads
from the roadside table to the Swakop River side (south) and the tracks are
quite clear. After some 30 - 40 km, you will find a cave, which makes for
excellent camping. I know there is a lot of people that have visited this place,
so I'm awaiting your responses.
Naukluft Park:
Rock arch:
Rock arch is situated some 30km away from the famous Bloedkoppe. Only a track
indicates the entry and it's quite possible to miss it. If one can drive, it is
possible to get there in a 2x4 bakkie with suspension lifted, but I would advise
4x4. Not that the whole route is difficult, but crossing 2 dry river beds (a bit
exaggerated) can be a problem, especially during the lunch hour when the sand is
very soft. This is very rocky terrain, so make sure to drive slowly or pay the
price.
There is basically just one cave, the rest is
quite open, and the wind usually blows in the desert. The cave is big enough for
3 4x4's, but some are going to spent time in the sun.
This place has exceptional sunsets and the area
is full of nice rock formations to see. If you plan on camping for a few days,
it's great to set up camp in the caves and just drive through the area during
the days. There is enough to see to keep you busy for some time.
North western coastal area:
Wlotskas baken:
Thanks to Torsten who indicated this place to me. When driving from SWK to
Henties, you get to a small holiday village called Wlotskas Baken. At the end of
it their is a track running into the desert. Follow this route and you will get
to a gravel road mainly used Telecom to patrol their lines. Once you cross that
you can camp between huge black rock boulders that protects you from the wind.
These rocks also have the most amazing shapes due to erosion. It also serves to
protect you from the lonely traveler on the route, and is far from the salt road
which links SWK to Henties. Out of the preying eyes of unwelcome guests.
Omaruru River:
This river bed is just north of Henties. Many people travel in this riverbed
during the holiday season with quad bikes and bakkies for a midday braai. Once
you reach Omdel Dam, yes people, a dam in the middle of the desert, there are
lovely thorn trees to protect you from he sun. Most people usually make a turn
around here, it's about 50km inland from the coastal road and 2x4 bakkies should
be more than enough to reach this point.
Once you get down back into the riverbed above
the dam wall, you enter an area that not many people use. Depending on the water
levels of the dam, this can sometimes prove to be more difficult than
anticipated. 4x4 is definitely advised from here-on. The riverbed is quite hard
and can be done in 2x4, but once you reach the underground wells reaching the
surface, mud can prove a bit too much for 2x4.
There is not a lot of exit points once you are in
the river with rock faces covering both sides of the riverbed. Take some good
advise from one that has been there. If you plan to take this trip, do it when
it's winter time, and definitely NOT during the rainy season. It's not lekker
hugging a rock face and praying that the river does not came down at 3:00 in the
morning. As I said before, there is not a lot of exit points.
There is quite a lot of game to be seen, mostly Oryx,
springbok, ostrich and jackal. I won't say it's the most scenic route I've done,
but makes for some lekker 4x4 playing at times. And there is more than enough
thorn trees to give you a welcome shading during the hot sunny days.
The road from Usakos to Uis crosses the riverbed
some 70 km from Usakos, linking up to the Usakos-Spitzkoppe-Henties road. That
is as far as I have done this riverbed, 3 days in total.