Photography by Louis Reichert


 

This page came to be with a discussion on the forum that there are many places out there that you can use to camp that would not cost you a arm and a leg or are some tomes for free. The guys are sharing this information here for other people to visit these places. Just remember if you visit one of these places keep it clean. If you come there and find that the person before you did not leave it clean, clean it up so that the next person at least have a clean spot. There will unfortunately always be some hooligans around to try and mess up things for us. 

Camping along the Polentswa trail in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier park, Botswana side by Alfred Faul

p002.jpg (37169 bytes)
Polentswa camping site at the start of the Polentswa Wilderness Trail in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

There are a total of three similar structures or camping sites approximately up to 100+ meters apart with an additional enclosure at each where you can shower. You have to bring your own shower, water and everything else. The Botswanas provide the shelters only so that lions and other similar friendly residents don’t join you for a cool down in the shower There are no fences or Park officials of any kind; you are totally in the open and totally on your own. Absolutely super!!! The trail (one way track) runs from here for + 260 km in the Botswana side of the Park and end about 25 km to the north at Lijersdraai in the RSA side (see map). You are not allowed to do the trail with less than two or more than 5 vehicles (4x4 only & no trailers) and in less than 3 days & 2 nights. En route you have to camp at two designated “camp sites” only. Your first night will be at Sesatwe Pan (Nr 2) and

p008.jpg (36606 bytes)
Sesatwe Pan camping site halfway along the Polentswa Wilderness Trail in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

the second night at Long Rambuka Pan.  Facilities at both sites are exactly the same and include (if you are lucky!) a very small sign against a tree with the word “camping” painted on it and ….. ….. that’s all!  Nothing more!!! Here we were visited by a cheetah and a couple of spotted hyena (the latter stayed over for the night). Between Sesatswe and Long Rambuka we were met by a lioness and her two juvenile cubs. I still maintain it was the famous Ousus.

Conclusion

Most definitely recommended for a very relaxing drive. A trip report with more photos will follow sometime in the future. I’ll be doing the other trail in the Botswana side of the Park (Mabuasehube Trail) next April. Believe it or not, but the trails in the RSA side (Bitterpan & Nossob 4x4 Echo trails) are too damn expensive and civilized for that matter!!!

Camping sites visited by Alfred Faul

013.jpg (43792 bytes)
On the exit side of Ryan’s Cave a speed breaker should you be approaching from the south or from down stream side (if you know where to look you should be able to see my daughter on the 2nd cliff above the right rear side of the Colt). 

Dx-12.jpg (45907 bytes)
Ugab Menhir camp  - our favorite place to say cheers to one year and hello to the next.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dx-32a.jpg (27948 bytes)
Ongongo “Turkish” bath (pool at the bottom of a fountain flowing from the rock formation at the back).

 

 

 

Dx-31a.jpg (30848 bytes)
Ongongo Community Camp between Sesfontein and the Khowarib Schlucht 

 

 

 

 

Dx-35.jpg (20881 bytes)
Just because rain in the dessert is so blooming spectacular!!!

 

 

Dx-37.jpg (28253 bytes)
This camp we named Springbokfontein (because of the large number of springbuck we saw there) between Puros & Orumpembe.

 

 

 

 

Dx-2.jpg (28506 bytes)
The Palm tree ‘bush” in the background as you approach from Kaoko Otavi to the east.

 

 

 

Dx-28.jpg (43883 bytes)
Onganga community camp on the banks of the upper Hoarusib River west of Kaoko Otavi.

 

 

 

Dx-1.jpg (27671 bytes)
As you approach from the west you need a mirror the read the sign post to the camp.

 

 

 

Dx-21a.jpg (37699 bytes)
Ovivero camp between Otjitanda and Van Zyl’s Pass.

 

 

 

Dx-25.jpg (33328 bytes)
Omunjandi Camp on the banks of the Kunene about 9 kilos down stream from Ruacana entrance.

 

 

 

Dx-1a.jpg (45589 bytes)
Omunjandi our camping site.

 

 

 

 

032.jpg (31304 bytes)
Khaudum Camp in the north of the reserve. No fences, hence you are invited!!  We were the first and only visitors in close to a month. 

 

027.jpg (36260 bytes)
Sikereti Camp in the south.

 

 

 

 

 

003.jpg (34111 bytes)
Khaudum Camp in the north.

 

Dx-14a.jpg (49650 bytes)
A CWYA-camp (camp-where-you-are) somewhere in Botswana

 

 

 

 

009.jpg (35450 bytes)
Tsodill hills in north west Botswana. 

 

 

 

Dx-20a.jpg (42478 bytes)
Along the Kunene after you have crossed the Ondoto river

 

 

 

Dx-5.jpg (31296 bytes)
A CWYA-camp (camp-where-you-are) somewhere west of Otjondeka in south- east Kaokoland.

 

 

 

 

Dx-18a.jpg (54351 bytes)
The “Kaalkol” 319 kilos south-west from Mamuno (40 north-west from Kang) is too close to home to be ……, but usually our last camp before we hit the last + 790 kilos back to Pretoria. Many a new trip was born here!! 

 

 

Dx-11a.jpg (49603 bytes)
About 60 kilos from Epupa show some of our CWYA-camps (camp-where-you-are) and often are the ones leaving the most precious memories deep inside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Campsites visited by Alex (Slowcoach)
"Epupa"

Epupa now has two campsites plus the "up market" camp the one with hot showers. The old campsite "Epupa Campsites" is now fenced off and the locals respect this except for offering services like firewood, laundry (you provide soap) and guiding. There is another site "Hot Springs Campsite" run by Koos Wervey who also helped set up the original campsite. I am not sure if his site private or not. The old campsite has nice facilities and in the low season it is empty. In the high season it will be busy.


The "Rhino Camp"

I have not overnighted at The Ugab "Rhino" Camp but it looks nice, once you get to the pitches. The entrance looks a bit miserable as you enter through the "village" where the ranger/tracker's families live. It has a variety of pitches with at least one A-frame and I think one bigger thatched shelter.

I believe that the village was moved back from the river because of the continued harassment by elephants! There is a real chance of seeing one of the Ugab family groups pass down the river. I am not sure that it is an "official" campsite more an extension of the base camp activities and to raise a little money for the village.

There is an interesting outdoor art gallery of animals made from junk some of it recycled from the clean up of the old mine workings. The approach road is sufficiently rough to keep out most low clearance vehicles.

The gates serve to let them have a good look at anyone crossing the Ugab and entering the Doros area to prevent illegal tracking/poaching. Tracking by tour operators, private guides or tourists even with no intention of harming the rhino can be construed as harassment and can land you in the smelly stuff. There was a MET memo in late 2000 to this effect.

It is a good base to go exploring the Ugab provided you know your way around the swamps just driving up river is not a good option.

Local opinion (SRT rangers) is that an incident with a tourist and an elephant is a disaster waiting to happen. The Ellies are not particularly happy bunnies and they are surprisingly difficult to spot. They get a lot of grief from tours/tourists at the Ugab Wilderness ("Jammie's") Camp section complete with stone throwing etc. They also do not appreciate people testing their 4x4s in the river bed. Apparently the test is to see how far you can get down river in 2wd just using speed; some things I will never understand!

"Jamie's Camp"

Sorry not stayed here either but it looks okay but does take tour parties. Pitches are amongst big stands of Khori bushes (Salvadoria?). It is close to the principle entrance to the riverbed.

"White Lady Rest camp (Uis)"

I do not mean the "Brandberg Rest camp"!

Sorry not stayed here either. This is a new one within a walled enclosure at the back of town. Not exactly the middle of nowhere, just on another planet. Anyone who knows Uis will know what I mean. What a place!

The Northwest offers some good wild camping opportunities but the principle valleys, Hartmann's and the Marienfluss have a campsite only rule. Veld fires are the obvious danger that this may refer to.

The Shell map shows camping at the end of Hartmann's Valley but I would not bank on finding a campsite.

Returning from Hartmann's your best bet is camp anywhere south of the turning. Reaching Puros is just a bit too far and too full of flies. There is a campsite (or rather a sign) near Orumpembe but I have not seen it.

Puros or Purros.

Dx-9a.jpg (68349 bytes)
Must be the camp at Puros Alex is referring to

Nice setting, shame about the flies. Big Camel thorns, lots of Elephant Spoor, lots of flies. I believe there has been a dispute over whose campsite it is.

"Elephant Song"

Not seen this one but it is near Dubis, tried to get there from down river but track through the wetland blocked by elephant! Was run by "Archie" but I think he had a bit of a lapse of judgment concerning the camp funds. I think this is the same Archie that had a bit of a lapse of judgment when it came to Rhino poaching many years ago.

"The Palm wag Concession"

I think you can still get camping permits and there are some recognized camping spots. There are also a surprising number of lions not hundreds but one is enough.

"Damaraland Communal Area"

Anywhere away from the rest of humanity providing you can find an access where there are no fences.

Camp sites visited by Ryan Visser 
Central Namibia:
Windhoek (WHK) to the coast(SWK or WVB):
There are 4 gravel roads leading to the coast, namely via Boshua pass, Us pass, Gamsberg pass and of course Spreetshoogte pass.

Spreets hoogte1.JPG (18230 bytes)
Torsten se boom op Spreetshoogte.

Spreets hoogte2.JPG (19377 bytes)
Spreetshoogte road.

Of all Spreetshoogte must be the nicest, 

but beware, the wind is ALWAYS blowing quite strongly. There is no campsite on/near the pass, but the roadside table is some 50m away from the road. The road is not traveled a lot, and this place makes for a great sunset. You are basically on top of the escarpment, looking down on the desert valley below, a site you will always remember. This road leads to the road which links WVB with Solitaire, the crossing some 20km from Solitaire. Therefore a great and recommended place should you like to visit Sossusvlei ex WHK or the other way around.

Boshua pass lies on the road from WHK to SWK. There are no trees for shade, so usually it's a very early morning get up and go should you stay there. The farm fences are quite far from the road and you can therefore camp far off the road. This road is quite busy and I would not recommend it, but it's usually a nice halfway point should you wish to get out of town (WHK) late on a Friday afternoon on your way to the coast.

Us pass and Gamsberg pass do not have camping spots that is far from the road and I will not recommend camping there. Gamsberg is one of the more beautiful passes, but rather drive through there during the day and go camping elsewhere.

Western Namibia east and south east of WVB:
Naukluft park:
Mirabib:

mir_road.JPG (40754 bytes)
Mirabib road.

mir_cave.JPG (59016 bytes)
Mirabib cave
.

Mirabib is a koppie in the middle of the desert some 70 km inland from Gobabeb and about 140km from WVB. The wind has blown caves into the granite, which makes for excellent camping. 

 

mir_sunset.JPG (18440 bytes)
Mirabib sunset
.

There you will have your toilet with a view, and what an amazing view that is. This place is very close to my heart, and I have very special memories of it. There are 4 caves, 3 big ones and a smallish one. I always prefer the smaller one, as it has a magnificent view. The caves doesn't look to each other and chances are very small that you will encounter/hear other campers in the other caves. Remember to get your permit should you wish to stay there, and the caves are first come first serve. Better get there a bit earlier to secure your cave.

Outside the park:
Khan River:

002.jpg (42873 bytes)
As the birds would see you – from the top

008.jpg (43516 bytes)
Must be Ryan’s “Cave Camp” in the Kahn River
.

The turn-off from the main tar road which links WHK and SWK are just after/before the last/first farm fence, some 80 km to/from SWK. The Trekkopje sign and the roadside table are basically next to each other. The turn off leads from the roadside table to the Swakop River side (south) and the tracks are quite clear. After some 30 - 40 km, you will find a cave, which makes for excellent camping. I know there is a lot of people that have visited this place, so I'm awaiting your responses.

Naukluft Park:

Rock arch:
Rock arch is situated some 30km away from the famous Bloedkoppe. Only a track indicates the entry and it's quite possible to miss it. If one can drive, it is possible to get there in a 2x4 bakkie with suspension lifted, but I would advise 4x4. Not that the whole route is difficult, but crossing 2 dry river beds (a bit exaggerated) can be a problem, especially during the lunch hour when the sand is very soft. This is very rocky terrain, so make sure to drive slowly or pay the price.

There is basically just one cave, the rest is quite open, and the wind usually blows in the desert. The cave is big enough for 3 4x4's, but some are going to spent time in the sun.

This place has exceptional sunsets and the area is full of nice rock formations to see. If you plan on camping for a few days, it's great to set up camp in the caves and just drive through the area during the days. There is enough to see to keep you busy for some time.

North western coastal area:
Wlotskas baken:

Thanks to Torsten who indicated this place to me. When driving from SWK to Henties, you get to a small holiday village called Wlotskas Baken. At the end of it their is a track running into the desert. Follow this route and you will get to a gravel road mainly used Telecom to patrol their lines. Once you cross that you can camp between huge black rock boulders that protects you from the wind. These rocks also have the most amazing shapes due to erosion. It also serves to protect you from the lonely traveler on the route, and is far from the salt road which links SWK to Henties. Out of the preying eyes of unwelcome guests.

Omaruru River:
This river bed is just north of Henties. Many people travel in this riverbed during the holiday season with quad bikes and bakkies for a midday braai. Once you reach Omdel Dam, yes people, a dam in the middle of the desert, there are lovely thorn trees to protect you from he sun. Most people usually make a turn around here, it's about 50km inland from the coastal road and 2x4 bakkies should be more than enough to reach this point.

Once you get down back into the riverbed above the dam wall, you enter an area that not many people use. Depending on the water levels of the dam, this can sometimes prove to be more difficult than anticipated. 4x4 is definitely advised from here-on. The riverbed is quite hard and can be done in 2x4, but once you reach the underground wells reaching the surface, mud can prove a bit too much for 2x4.

There is not a lot of exit points once you are in the river with rock faces covering both sides of the riverbed. Take some good advise from one that has been there. If you plan to take this trip, do it when it's winter time, and definitely NOT during the rainy season. It's not lekker hugging a rock face and praying that the river does not came down at 3:00 in the morning. As I said before, there is not a lot of exit points.

There is quite a lot of game to be seen, mostly Oryx, springbok, ostrich and jackal. I won't say it's the most scenic route I've done, but makes for some lekker 4x4 playing at times. And there is more than enough thorn trees to give you a welcome shading during the hot sunny days.

The road from Usakos to Uis crosses the riverbed some 70 km from Usakos, linking up to the Usakos-Spitzkoppe-Henties road. That is as far as I have done this riverbed, 3 days in total.

 

Mobile: 0811241839
E-mail:
sandtracks@gmail.com