Photography by Louis Reichert

BOTSWANA TRIP: 01 October to 11 October 2003 by Pierre de Wet 

We left for Botswana on Wednesday 01 October. Abrie, wife Suzette and mother in law Marie in a new Discovery TD5 auto with Conqueror trailer and myself and wife Christi in our Colt. We met at the Total one stop on the N1 to Pietersburg a few kilos North of the Zambesi offramp, Pretoria. From there we traveled over Nylstroom, Vaalwater, Ellisras and entered Botswana at the Stockpoort border post. Then on to Mahlapye, Palapye, Serowe(diesel) and Khama Rhino Santuary(camping at app. P50 pp). Pitched camp at around 15h30 and then left on a game drive. We were lucky to spot 3 Rhinos and some other game. Nice campsite, clean ablutions with hot showers etc.

 
Thursday 02 October off to the pans over Lothlakane(diesel top up), Mmatshumo and then on to Kubu Island. The fees at Kubu are now P126 for 2 persons, we felt it is ridiculous as they offer you nothing so we decided to camp on the pans. First drove around Kubu but where chased by a local on a bicycle, you even have to pay to take photos so we hit the road back and after about 30 km found a nice spot on a pan and made our camp. The air conditioner on the Colt packed up, a repeat of the old problem so from there on we had to cope with the heat and dust. A custom part will now be installed in place of the pipe that cracks due to vibration so we hope that it will last longer than the 1.5 years since the previous break. It is a wonderful experience to camp on a pan, total silence with a view of 360 degrees with nothing around you.
 
Friday we took the so called ‘wet’ road which was very dry to Ghweta and then hit the tar to Maun. Stocked up with diesel and some foodstuff and then North to see if we could find Kaziikini community camp. I took the wrong split after the veterinary gate and we missed the camp. It was getting late so we decided to carry on to Mankwè for which I had a GPS waypoint. Arrived there after dark, set up the camp and relaxed. The campsites are very large with a bucket shower, toilet and washbasin per site at P55 pp. The next morning we decided to stay another night and relaxed around the pool and charged our batteries after the many hours travelling the previous days.

Sunday 05 October was time to move on, we traveled North on the Moremi cut line, crossed the Khwai river and spend about half a day in the very game rich area on the way to Khwai River lodge. The lodge is a beautiful place but at US $200 pp way out of our league. Traveled app. 20 km west and bush camped the night. Camp was set up in a laager way with some lapa being put up and a fire made at the entrance so we felt quite safe even with lions roaring for most of the night.

Monday we traveled West with some heavy sand coming up. The Disco initially battled in the sand but it appeared that the overrun brake on the trailer did not release properly. After that all went fine and it handled the trailer very well. The Colt had no problems with the new shocks and torsion bars in the front an absolute blessing working very well and the cross member not in the sand like on the previous trip in the area. We passed a hunting camp called ‘Splash-Camp’ which was empty except for 2 locals taking care of it. After some negotiations they agreed that we can camp there for free but at the end we gave them P30. Nice trees, a toilet and water for washing. That night the lions roared very close to us and we enjoying all the sounds of the night while sitting around the fire and later lying in our tents.

From there after about 5km West there is a track to the North. We took it but it was not used for a long time, heavy sand and lots of branches from the elephants in the road. Travelling was slow at around 12 km/h and after about 40km we crossed the main road (also a sand track) from Betsha to the East. We still traveled to the North and took the split to the East to Kings Pool and eventually Linyanti campsite in Chobe. In this area there are thousands of Elephant. If I add up all elephants I have seen in my life before this day it can't be half of what I saw then. We decided to take the plunge and pay the hefty fee to camp the night at Linyanti on the Chobe River in Chobe. The costs are P120 pp entry fee, P30 pp camping and P50 for the vehicle. This part of the road through Chobe is a transit road so you can drive through for free if not camping.

Wednesday we drove the short stretch through Chobe before taking the Chobe cut line Southeast and then turn left on the Chobe Forest Reserve cut line on our way to Ngoma bridge where we took the tar road running through Chobe reserve to Kasane. The 182km took us 5.5 hours with the first half sand and then good gravel and tar. Filled the Disco with diesel and added P150 to the Colt. The Disco used 127L (2 Jerry cans + tank) over the 550 km from Maun and the Colt not much less, indicating how heavy the sand was. We booked in at Toro Lodge for 2 nights at P38.50 pp. It is a new lodge with the trees still small but nice camping with an ablution per site and a swimming pool.

Thursday was our last day before starting the journey back home. We first wanted to cross the river with the Kazankulu ferry into Zambia but the one ferry is still broken after the accident a couple of weeks ago and they were working on the other one. Instead of wasting time we checked back into Botswana without being into Zambia and out again into Zimbabwe. Had to pay R140 carbon tax and R30 insurance for Zimbabwe but the 5 of us all went in the Disco. The ferry cost R130 in one direction. Off to Victoria Falls (70km), visited the spectacular falls, some shopping for the ladies with prices of souvenirs, handbags etc. very low. An Ostrich leather handbag for R225 as an example. Then back to Toro lodge for a sunset cruise on the Chobe River, costing P99 for the boat for an hour.

Friday, 10 October we started the long way home over Nata with an overnight stop at Woodlands 4x4 stop, 10 km North of Francistown. It is a very nice camp, only 3 campsites and a couple of bungalows with excellent ablutions, a pool and green grass. Costing P40 pp. for camping.
Saturday and our last day. Traveled via Francistown, Palapye, Martins Drift border post, Ellisras, Thabazimbi, Brits and then home in Pretoria.
We paid R1.64 for one Pula. Our cost for the trip (2 adults) including fuel(3100km), camping and all money spend on small items was around R3800. Food and drinks were mostly taken from RSA so very little money was spend on it.    

Botswana 26 April – 4 Mei 2002 Kobie Small / Pierre de Wet 

Vrydag 26 April 2002

Uiteindelik het die dag aangebreek, dit is nou ek, Annette, Hennie, Issie, Pierre en Christi, se beplande trip deur Botswana.

Ons het nie soos gewoonlik saam van Gauteng vertrek nie want ek het nog `n takie gehad wat ek vir Martie moes verrig en het alreeds die oggend vertrek.  Hennie en Pierre het later vertrek en by Gwelo by ons aangesluit. Dit wil lyk of Hennie nou `n gewoonte daarvan maak om `n pap wiel te kry op pad na Gwelo. Hierdie keer het hy `n band gebars. Verder het hulle voorspoedig gery en by ons aangesluit.

Ons het nie eers aan tent opslaan gedink nie maar eerder in die jagters hut oornag.

Saterdag 27 April 2002.

Daar was glad geen haas nie, en ons het ontbyt voorberei en dit toe gedurende `n rit op die vlot op die Limpopo rivier geeet.

Dit was al 13h00 toe ons pad vat en gelukkig het die formaliteite by die Zanzibar (22°34.06’ S 28°28.28’ E ) grenspos sonder vertraging verloop. Ons roete neem ons oor Sefophe (22°10.08’ S 27°58.03’ E ) Selebi – Phikwe (21°58.03’ S 28°48.73’ E ) en op pad na Serule het Pierre `n papwiel gehad wat ons daar herstel het. Net voor Serule kry ons ‘n bek en klou seer pos waar ons met die motors deur `n chemiese bad moes ry, ons skoene moes ook `n behandeling ontvang. Die man was sommer omgekrap met my en Hennie omdat ons, wat soveel kamp toerusting het, vir hom weet te vertelle dat ons net een paar skoene het.  Toe ons Serule ( 21°55.609’ S 27°19.202’ E) nader het dit begin skemer word en het ons naastiglik begin soek vir `n kampplek. Dit was al goed donker toe ons by `n konstuksie terrein langs `n treinspoor besluit om te kamp (21°56.863’ S 27°18.26’ E ). Ons het nog nie eers behoorlik die kamp opgeslaan nie toe is `n diesel trein reeds twee keer verby. Hierdie gedreun en geraas van die trein was natuurlik teen ongeveer middernag weer herhaal.

 Sondag 28 April 2002. 

Om  09H00 het ons die spoorlyn agter ons gelaat. Hiervandaan het ons bos langs gery tot by Paje ( 22°15.643’ S 26°47.582’ E ) Nou was dit teerpad tot by Letlhakane.

Dit was al agtermiddag toe ons die uitkykpunt na Sua pan bereik. By die veehek ( 20°58.209’ S 25°38.419’ E ) na Kubu eiland het ons die sogenaamde nat pad na die eiland geneem. Die pad was nie nat nie en ons het `n pragtige sonsondergang geniet. Eers teen skemer kom ons by Kubu eiland ( 20°53.727’ S 25°49.552’ E ) aan. Die kamp word deur die lokale bevolking beheer en het geen geriewe nie. Dit is egter `n pragtige plek om te kamp en als is mooi skoon. Dit is ook nie verniet dat die eiland bekend is vir sy Kremertart en “African Starnut” bome nie . `n Kampplek word aan ons toegeken en dit word vir ons uitgewys dat ons nou by “no where is”. Die klimaat was reg en ons en Hennie hulle besluit om nie tent op te slaan nie en liewers onder die sterre en `n lieflike “African Star Starnut “ boom  te slaap.

Maandag 29 April 2002.

Ons ry eers reg om die eiland “Wat `n pragtige plek !” . Ons besluit om nie met die selfde pad uit te ry nie maar met die pad na Tshongo (20°48.045’ S 25°44.908’ E )  omdat ek die fout gemaak het om die hek waarmee ons ingekom het te verwar  met die veehek noord. Ons draai toe terug in plaas van noord, dit het natuurlik heelwat verwaring met die navigasie veroorsaak, Maar aan die ander kant het ons `n onvergeetlike dag in die panne geniet. Ek en Annette was natuurlik die eerste van die groep om vas te sit. Die Toyota se agterwiel het in `n ertvark gat verdwyn en daar het dit gesit totdat Pierre my met sy Colt uit gesleep het. In die begin was ons baie versigtig vir die panne en het probeer om al op die kante te ry, die kant was dan ook natuurlik die plekke waar die ertvarke saam getrek het. Hennie het die voortou geneem en ons gewaarsku indien dit te nat geword het. Op `n staduim moes ons vir so ongeveer `n kilo oor die pan steek. Ons besluit toe dat ek sal eers ry en dan sal die ander volg. Nadat ek my wiele af geblaas het na 1.4 bar het ek die voortou geneem. Halfpad het ek begin besef dat ons totaal in die verkeerde rigting beweeg. Toe die hele groep oor was, was daar seker vir `n uur gestry en kaart gelees. Dit het duidelik geword dat die vee heining wat ons die heeltyd in die oog hou nie die heining is wat ons gedink het dit nie is nie. Hierdie heining het nerens op `n kaart verskyn nie. Toe ek eers my fout met die hekke besef  en die heining storie uitgeklaar het, het ons `n lesing die naaste aan ons, op die pad geneem en op die GPS in gelees. Teen hierdie tyd was ons al mak en het die “banggeit” vir die panne verdwyn en het ons reguit op die verwysings punt gery. Daar was nie uitdraai vir `n pan of veld nie. Ons het darem besluit dat ek sal teen `n stadige pas voor ry sodat ek die ander betyds kan waarsku indien daar moeilikheid is.  Toe ons weer so `n opgeskote pan oorgesteek ( 20°53.406’ S 25°38.617’ E ) het ons daar en dan besluit om op die pan kamp op te slaan. Hierdie was seker een van die indrukwekkendste kampe wat ons nog gehad het, `n mens kon 360° om jou kyk en net die horison sien. Daardie aand was daar tot laat lekker gesels oor die dag se ondervindings. In hierdie oopte kon ons nie anders nie, en het die hele groep die aand onder die sterre geslaap.    

 Dinsdag 30 April 2002.

  Dit mag verlate op die panne wees maar die oggend het die jakkalse ons wakker geraas en die kraaie het ons vroeg besoek met die hoop om iets te kry om te eet. Die mees interessanste vir my was die skynbeelde wat ons die oggend gesien het. Op een staduim het almal van ons nie ver van ons `n dorp met groot geboue of graan silo’s gesien. Vyf minute later was daar tot ons verbasing niks. Vier kilo’s verder sluit ons by die pad aan. Alhoewel hierdie pad op die kaarte aan gedui word en deur die panne loop, sou mens dit nie as `n pad herken nie maar eerder `n paar spore op die pan. Vandag besef ons dat jy nie die panne kan ondervind en geniet net deur hierdie pad te ry nie. Net buite Gweta waar ons weer by die teerpad aansluit ( 20°11.435’ S 25°15.834’ E ) is `n lieflike groot boom waar ons iets eet  voor ons die 202 kilo’s na Maun aanpak.

Dit was 16H00 toe ons Maun bereik en daar was genoeg tyd om aankope en diesel te kry. Audi kamp ( 19°56.032’ S 23°30.529’ E )  was nie moelik om te kry nie en hulle bied ook 20% korting aan RSA burgers. Dit was weer lekker om `n warm stort te neem. Die kamp se drinkwater word van die Maun munisipaliteit verkry en die krane wat drinkwater het is duidelik met `n prentjie van `n geel beker gemerk. Na `n braai - vleisie “pass” ons almal vroeg uit.

Woensdag 1 Mei 2002.

Die plan was om vandag te begin met `n sirkelroete aan die suide van die Delta. Toe ons die laaste inkopies gaan doen het, het ons Suid Afrikaners wat daar kontrak werk doen ontmoet, hulle het ons meegedeel dat net toer operateurs aan die suide kant toegelaat word. Met die inligting het ons toe maar die pad noord gevat en ongeveer 35km anderkant Shorobe gaan ons deur die laaste vee beheer punt. Net voor Zankuya  verlaat ons die hoofpad en ry op die grense van die Meromi en Chobe Nasionale parke. Ons het dit geniet, die roete neem ons langs `n rivier en die wild wat ons teekom is te goed om waar te wees. Ons begin ernstig soek na `n kamp want die Shell kaart en inligting wat ek vooraf bekom het oor Khwai lodge se ligging was totaal verkeerd. Dit was dig bebos en die son het nou ernstig begin groet. Uiteindelik het ons `n oop stuk grond tussen die bos gekry ( 19°05.077’ S 23°42.083’ E ) waar ons kamp op slaan. Ons was net goed aan die gang toe die hienas en `n leeu mekaar skraap. Maar wat hoe harder die leeu knor hoe harder lag die hienas vir hom. Dit was maar met groot opgewondenheid en oor die skouer loer wat ons verder kamp opslaan en ete voorberei. Ons eet die aand pampoenpot en kuier lekker om die vuur. Die motors en die tente word maar naby mekaar getrek en opgeslaan.

Donderdag 2 Mei 2002.
Issie en Hennie berei lekker ontbyt voor en nadat ons dit geniet het vat ons pad.  Ons is van ons beplande roete maar besluit om die pad wat die oewer van die Delta volg te neem en te verken. As ons nie op `n verdere stadium `n deurgang kry na ons oorspronklike roete nie sal ons maar terug draai en dan die roete neem van waar ons afgewyk het. Hier is absoluut `n doolhoof van padjies ( of sal ek sê `n doolhoof van vore soos die lorries dit in die nat tye getrap het ) en ons moes maar kort, kort op die GPS kyk of ons nog bestaan.  Eindelik kry ons Kwai Lodge ( 19°07.679’ S 23°39.683’ E ) wat `n mooi plek. Een van die addisionele vere wat Piere vir die Colt laat installeer het, het gebreek en nadat ons dit gesweis het, besluit ons dit is laat genoeg en °03.473’ S 23°10.165’ E ). Christi bak `n brood wat ons saam met `n braaivleisie geniet. 

  Vrydag 3 Mei 2002. 

Ons word wakker met `n verskeidenheid voël geluide. Hennie het die vorige nag begin siek word. Ons vertrek 10H00 uur en vorder maar stadig. Die veer op die Colt wat ons die vorige dag gesweis het, het weer gebreek en Pierre haal dit af en sit die roete sonder dit voort. Nou was dit Piere se beurt om vas te val in `n modder gat. Nie baie verder kry Hennie ook `n beurt om vas te sit in die vore. Na nog twee water gate verder het ons slim geraak en net gesoek na waar daar spore om die modder gate is en dit gevolg. Hennie is werklik siek en aangesien ons by `n mooi plek is besluit ons om af te saal vir die dag en kamp op te slaan ( 18°59.355’ S 22°59.949’ E ). Die aand eet ons pap en vleis. Later die aand sien ons ligte aankom en loop `n Duitser en twee Botswana manne tegemoet, hulle vra of hulle ons kampplek kan deel want hulle het geen idee waar hulle hulle nou bevind nie.

Saterdag 4 Mei 2002. 

Hennie is baie siek en ons begin vrees vir Malaria. Almal is dit eens dat ons liewers mediese moet hulp kry. Ons vertrek om 08H00 en na 13uur se ry bereik ons Maun. Hennie neem `n bad en ons gaan soek hulp by Maun Hospitaal. Nadat Hennie 2 Pula betaal het, het ons in die buite pasiente se tou geval. Na `n interessante malaria toets, voorsien hulle Hennie met `n handvol medisyne en ons almal val in die bed.

Sondag 5 Mei 2002. 

Ons draai in die kamp en om 10.30 besluit ons om die pad huis toe aan te pak. Nadat ons brandstof aan gevul het neem ons die korste roete na Gaberone. Dit het al begin skemer word en ek en Annette besef dat ons die ander twee voertuie gaan ophou as dit donker word en hulle dan laat by die grens sal wees. Ons besluit om oor te slaap. So `n paar kilo’s voor Serowe is die Khama  Rhino park ( 22.15º.069 S 26º43.730 E ) en ons besluit om daar te oornag. Na ons van die ander afskeid geneem het boek ons in teen 85 Pula’s per persoon. Ons kon nie `n beter oorslaap plek gekies het nie. Die kamp plekke is ruim en skoon. Na `n lekker stort en `n braai vleisie is ons bed toe.

Maandag 6 Mei 2002. 
Dit was `n plesier om die oggend met al die voël geluide wakker te word. Die voëls geniet die krummeltjies wat ons vir hulle uitgegooi het en ons geniet dit weer op ons beurt om hulle dop te hou. Tydens `n rit deur die kamp kom ons volop diere en baie voëls tee. Ons geniet die park so dat ons besluit om later weer hier `n naweek te kom deurbring. Na `n ontbyt en `n stort pak ons die laaste skof aan .........Huistoe.  

BOTSWANA TRIP-28 JUNE 2002---12 JULY 2002 by Deon Kotze  

First I would like to say I am not a writer and English is not my mother tongue so please excuse all the grammar and spelling mistakes.

This trip started to materialise at the end of 2001 , organised by Frans O’Kennedy a member of the 4x4 Offroad Adventure club. Unfortunately because of  her  asthma my wife could not accompany me on the trip and a colleague, Johan Rossouw,  joined me on the trip. A Total of 10 vehicles made the trip . The bookings were done beforehand by Frans, and because we were going to use our two-way radios in Botswana we had to get a Temporary CB Radio licence from the Botswana Telecommunications Authority at P50.00( Tel Gaborone 267-357755). Although we all had the licence in  Botswana we were not once asked to show a licence! 

At the time when we went on the trip the exchange rate was P100.00=R170.00

Friday 28 June 2002:

On Friday morning at 6h30,  4 vehicles left from the Swartland Engen garage on the N7. We were to meet the rest of our convoy before we reached Bokspits. The first night we camped in the National Park at Augrabies.

Camping fees R45 per person plus an entrance fee. Well tucked away in my sleeping bag I discovered that first night that I did 

not come prepared! It was freezing cold inside the sleeping bag although it was suppose to be a –5degree bag.

Saturday 29 June 2002:

Saturday our first stop was at Pep Stores in Upington to buy blankets. Mine was put inside the sleeping bag that  night while Johan threw his over the sleeping bag. Next time I will take my old sleeping bag along to throw over my normal sleeping bag.

Outside Upington we grouped together and I met the rest of the group

We crossed the border at the Bokspits Police post and had no problems on either side. We travelled a few kilometres and decided to bushcamp at a nice big open site that was not visible from the road. We had a ground tent but it was not difficult to find a good spot to pitch the tent.                        

Before I went on the trip I decided to buy a new small portable braai and now I experienced mistake no 2. This thing was painted and I had to make a big fire inside the braai to let the paint peel off, something which I should have done at home. Why do they paint these things?

Sunday 30 June 2002:

We woke up that morning to a temperature of –7 degrees! The water that was left standing outside was frozen solid.

Luckily I had my blanket inside my sleeping bag and had slept like a baby.

All the days thereafter we were blessed with windless sunshine.

We started off for Tshabong where we had to pay with Pulas for the first time. This was also my first time in Botswana and quickly the calculator came out to find out what we are paying in our money. We were quite surprise to find that we were paying R4.18 in Tshabong in comparison to R4.32 in Upington. Throughout the trip the petrol price ranged from Pula 2.33  to Pula 2.46

Our convoy consisted of 8 diesel vehicles and two petrol ones, my Isuzu and Mauritz’s Sani and trailer.

Up till now we travelled on tar and gravel roads but now, on our way to Hukuntsi we encountered the first real sand. .

The Isuzu loved the sand but in places the corrugations were rather hectic and we encountered our first breakdown.

 The springs on the one side of Dylan’s Isuzu collapsed and the axle had to be chained to the chassis by some of the drivers who looked like they knew what they were doing. All this took some time and we decided that we will bushcamp on the side of the road opposite the Mabuasehube Game Reserve. I never thought we would get an opening in all that grass but a nice spot was found and out came our groundtent. .

As before a big fire was made in the middle and it was happiness all round. I was so glad I brought my SodaClub machine along!

I also discovered that my spotlight-brackets had broken off and the spots were lying on the bumper. Better brackets, or welding,  next time!

Monday 1 July 2002:

Today was a holiday in Botswana, and it was also my wedding anniversary away from my wife! Luckily when we passed Hukuntsi I could send her a sms and when we reached Kang I received the reply that all was well. We only had cellphone reception in the towns and as soon as you had moved about 2km away their was no reception. So you type your sms, send it when you drive through the town, and receive a reply in the next town. I had wished I could have left the phone at home but unfortunately not this time.

When we reached Kang to refuel we also found that VAT was introduced  that day at 10% and nothing , except fuel, could be bought because they were marking all the goods with the new prices!

We traveled  500km on this day and set camp at the DQAE QARE campsite about                                               24 km outside Ghanzi. A basic solar heated ablution block is available and we stayed here for two nights at P20 per person per night. There were no shortage of wood.

We used the Tuesday to do some sight-seeing in Ghanzi and to stock up with fuel and steak at the Ghanzi Butchery at P16.00 (R28) per kilo! Dylan went through to Maun in order to have his vehicle repaired and would only join us on the Thursday.

Wednesday 3 July 2002:

We left that morning for Shakawe where we had a booking at Drotsky’s Cabins for three nights. The road was all tar but you have to keep a good lookout for donkeys and cattle. 

We also found that the Shell map(1998 revised) was not up to date. We refueled at Etsha 6 and found that all the shops still close between 13h00 and 14h00. Very nice freshly baked bread was bought from Ellen’s café at

 Etsha 6.

The campsites at Drotsky’s were well shaded but the ablutions were not well designed and not adequate for the amount of people it had to serve. Each campsite has a tap and a 220v plug and light and the camping costs P33 per person per night.The view from the bar on the Okavango River was magic and so was the sunset. .

They do clean your stand and bring wood every day but you have to bring all your own supplies and fuel. The nearest garage is at Etsha 6 .

We could not fit all the vehicles on one stand and had to split to two stands.

For reservations phone Jan Drotsky at 09267675035 or e-mail drotskys@info.bw

Thursday 4 July 2002:

We hired a boat and divided our party into three groups that each went for a two-hour drive on the Okavango River . We saw the most beautiful birds, crocodiles etc while some tried to fish as well.

Johan and I also did some washing and I made a mental note not to bring white socks again, it really is a job to get them white again.

Friday 5 July 2002:

We decided to go to Tsodilo Hills for the day and a convoy left early the morning. There are three routes to Tsodilo and Eileen Drotsky advised us to take the  middle one.

The roads department are busy building a road to Tsodilo and we had quite a job at first but eventually some of us found that if you take the “road” at speed the ride is a lot better.

We had a few good dices and I think when we came back we set a few speed records. We also had to help someone that was stuck with his trailer in the sand for some time  on their way, but I will not say more about the unfortunate doctor.

At Tsodilo we hired a guide that took us on a 2 hour brisk walk around the mountain to show us the bushman paintings. You have to be walking fit for this and you will climb a few rocks as well.

When we went back to camp some of us first went up to Mohembo next to the Caprivi Strip to have a look at the ferry. That night we did not braai but had a very nice meal at the Drotsky’s restaurant.

Saturday 6 July 2002:

Today we had to travel just under 500 kms and thus started early. Our destination was Mankwe Bush Lodge some kms north of Shorobe next to the Moremi Game Reserve(see www.mankwe.com for more details) I had to refuel at Etsha 6 and Maun. At Maun we had to stock up with all our supplies again. A word of warning: Leave someone at your vehicle, they tried to break into one of our vehicles while the owner was still walking to the shop.

On our way to Mankwe we went through another veterinary fence without any trouble. It seems like you can take meat north but not south.

The road is tarred to Shorobe and thereafter it becomes sand that will, in the rainy season, be rather tricky. There were no shortage of  Mopani trees.

We were booked at Mankwe for three nights at P70 per person per night and our group had to split onto two sites mainly because of the ablutions. Every site has a bucket shower , wash basin and flush toilet and a container is supplied where you must heat the water and then pour it in the bucket and hoist it up. You must have your own drinking water and wood can be collected in the veld. Be sure to have your food and other stock planned for the period you want to stay.

From the campsite the Moremi Game Reserve and Savuti area of the Chobe National Park can be visited for day trips. The campsites are also in reach of the game rich Khwai river area(about 25 km away)and can be explored without costs for a day. There are no fences between the reserves and the camping area. Luckily it was all quiet in the camp(except for the snoring!)

For the next two days we visited the Khwai river area and the following pictures were all taken between the campsite and the river area

The Monday three of the vehicles in our party decided to go to Chobe and home via another route.

Tuesday 9 July 2002:

We left the morning for Nata Lodge(400km) via Maun and Gweta. Luckily we did not buy meat in Maun , at the first veterinary gate about 60 kms out of Maun we all had to open our freezers and my one small packet of steak was confiscated.

We heard different reports from different people but it seems like you cannot take red meat south. There is however no restriction on chicken and ostrich. 

At Nata we refueled and as you leave the town towards Francistown there is a butchery where we bought fillet at P16.00. Rump , fillet, sirloin all is the same price!

Nata Lodge is about 6 km past Nata and we camped there for P20 per person per night. The ablutions were the best we had so far and by now we were experts with the tent and by the time we were ready to roll the next morning there were still enough time for a second shower that morning.

Wednesday 10 July 2002:

Today we only had 130 km to travel to Kubu Island. We picked up enough wood on the way.

After a very dusty and long travel we reached Kubu Island and had to pick us a camping site under the Baobabs. A little while later a man on a bicycle came to collect our fees, P75.00 for two people for the night. We had enough time to explore the island.

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This was our last night in Botswana and again we had some very good fillet.

Thursday 11 July 2002:

As the sun rose the next morning we left Kubu Island and we followed the well marked tracks through the pans. We had to leave Botswana through the Ramatlabama border post because we wanted to sleep in Vryburg that night, a 900km trip.

We said our good-byes to the rest of our party at Letlhakane and then continued via, Serowe, Palapye, Mahalapye, Gaborone, and Lobatse to the Ramatlabama border post. Somewhere outside Mahalapye I just suddenly heard this “beep-beep” sound on my two-way radio and then there was this traffic officer in the middle of the road with his arm stretched out. Then it hit me: I have been caught speeding in another country!

Maybe they lock you up for speeding! My heart was pounding as I was crossing the road to have a look at the machine. There it was: 94 km in a 80 km zone! “The fine is P100 sir and you pay here and I will give you a receipt”  It could have been worse!

We had no problems at the border and at 19h00 that evening we booked in at a chalet in the caravan park in Vryburg. We had a lengthy 30 minute shower, Johan made us a good meal and we hit the bed after a stiff whisky, or two. How good it was to sleep in a bed again.

Friday 12 July 2002:

We hit the road at 6h30 that morning and at 19h00 after  travelling  1100km   we were back home in Cape Town, tired but our batteries fully recharged.

Vehicle: Isuzu 320V6  Double cab 1999 model.

Fuel Consumption:  6519 km traveled ; 1037.62 lt petrol used at a total of R4310.42.

Consumption: 6.2 km/lt or 16 lt /100km.  

Accommodation costs in Botswana for 2 people for 12 nights : R1450.00

THE END(for now)

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E-mail: sandtracks@gmail.com